Is Steve Madden (SHOO) a Good LBO Target?
Tom Lyons
Editor’s note: This is the first of a two-part series examining clothing retailer Steve Madden (SHOO).
This report provides a detailed analysis of the question of whether or not an LBO of Steve Madden (ticker: SHOO) is viable. Thus this report will focus not on Steve Madden’s earning potential but its ability to generate cash flows that will be able to service acquisition-related debt, while still leaving room for further investment to drive the company’s growth - thus leading to of appreciation of the underlying assets
In this analysis we learn that Steve Madden reports its service revenue in two different revenue streams, the wholesale division and the retail division. An analysis of Steve Madden’s financial statements shows that both the retail division and the wholesale division experienced a drop in revenues in their year over year reporting for the second quarter of 2007. Given this financial information and using a discounted cash flow (DCF) valuation model, we determined that the present implied value of Steve Madden is $34.25 a share or $687.2 million. This is the maximum amount that we would recommend buying Steve Madden for, and further recommend acquiring the company if the price stays below $34.25 a share.
Overview:
Steve Madden was originally incorporated as a New York Corporation in 1990 by its founder and current Creative and Design Chief, Steve Madden. The company went through the initial public offering process in December of 1993. The initial public offering was handled by Stratton Oakmont, a now defunct stock brokerage that was shut down in the late 1990s due to charges of stock manipulation. In 1998 Steve Madden Corporation was reincorporated in Delaware. Then in 2001 the company faced a major hardship when Founder and then Chief Executive Officer Steve Madden was investigated for stock manipulation in Steven Madden stock. Mr. Madden ended up being sentenced to over three years in jail for his actions. Part of Mr. Madden’s sentencing included a stipulation that he could not return as a Chief Executive Officer of a publically traded company for a set number of years. Mr. Madden is still employed by Steve Madden under the heading Creative and Design Chief. The company now trades on the Nasdaq Stock Exchange under the ticker symbol SHOO.
Steve Madden’s main business is the designing, sourcing, marketing, and selling fashionable footwear brands for men women and children. Steve Madden distributes their products through four major venues. The four venues are their online e-commerce website, its retail stores, department stores, and specialty stores. The company has core brands along with updated styles that are constantly being changed in order to capitalize on market trends. Being a trend setter in the shoe market has propelled Steve Madden to a top name brand.
Steve Madden has three distinct business segments; its wholesale division, its retail division, and private label division. The whole sale division is made up of seven different brands: Steve Madden, Steven, l.e.i, Candie’s, Stevies, Unionbay, and the Steve Madden Men’s brand. The retail division is a wholly own subsidiary that operates Steve Madden, Steven, and Shoe Biz retail stores. The retail division also operates the Company’s outlet store and the e-commerce website.
10-Year Revenues, Courtesy Morningstar.com

Analysis:
Steve Madden’s accounting method breaks its revenue streams into two portions. The first portion is revenue from its wholesale operations and the second portion is revenue from its retail operations. Steven Madden uses the First in First Out (FIFO) method of valuing inventory stated at the lower of cost or market. Since wholesale and retail are handled in a different manner each section will be analyzed independently when looking at the company’s current performance, market trends, and the current economic state. Once these areas are touched on, the numbers will provide us the information to determine Steve Madden’s implied present value. The numbers in the following analysis are taken from Steve Madden’s 10-Q quarterly reports that were announced August 9th.
The Wholesale Division:
The wholesale division of Steve Madden made up 73% of total sales revenue in the second quarter of 2007. When comparing the overall numbers of the wholesale division of Steve Madden from the 3 and 6 month periods in 2007 to those same periods of 2006 one thing that immediately becomes apparent is the drop in revenues and income from 2006 to 2007. The fall in revenues were attributed to a decrease of net sales in the Men’s Division along with a miscalculation of fashion trends amongst the Candies Division. The revenue numbers also suffered from the lack of a strong trend in the shoe market such as peep toe shoes last year. The subprime lending meltdown and subsequent credit crunch that ensued has caused consumers in the retail markets to cut back spending. Lower year-over-year sales have been a common theme amongst retailers this year and are not exclusive to Steve Madden. Along with a drop in revenue, the wholesale division also saw a drop in gross profit margins to 34% from 38% from the previous time period. The company attributed this drop to an increase in markdowns required to move inventories of the Candies Division. The company also increased advertising expenditures for women’s fashion in order to try to combat the lower sales of shoes during the first quarter of this year.
The Retail Division:
The retail division of Steve Madden made up 27% of total sales revenue for the second quarter of 2007. The retail division has been undergoing many changes over the past year in order to improve gross profit margins. The changes consist of job cuts, reducing freight costs, store to store transfers, and inventory shrinkage. These changes improved gross margins to 62% from 54% from the same period in the prior year. While YoY revenues were down for the retail division, income from operations increased from $2.1 to $3 million. Along with increasing income, the retail division opened a new store during the last 2 quarters. The same store sales for existing stores declined 18% from 2006 to 2007. The drop in sales was attributed to the lack of any major trends in the shoe market over the past two quarters.
Coming tomorrow: outlook, valuation, and recommendation.
Disclosure: Author is long SHOO.
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December 6th, 2007 at 12:39 pm
LBO deals are falling apart recently; if you think the markets are going to repair themselves to the point that LBOs start up again, why not instead pick one of the many deals that have already been announced but have fallen apart, on the assumption that these deals would be renegotiated?
One I have in mind here is URI, a deal which the buyer pulled out, there’s litigation by the company to force specific performance, but, with a more friendly credit market could easily be renegotiated for a few bucks lower than the initial deal price.
December 6th, 2007 at 9:55 pm
[...] note: Yesterday, Tom examined Steve Madden’s recent operating history, so reading that will give you the background for the valuation [...]
December 12th, 2007 at 2:55 pm
There are deeper reasons for Steve Madden’s declining retail and Internet sales.
1) Steve Madden appears to have severe production, delivery and time-to-market problems. Most of their delivery dates for shoes listed on their website are not believable.
Up until now, I was a regular cutomer of Steve Madden High Heel shoes, especially in larger sizes (women’s 11 & 12), mainly through their online retail channel.
Over the last year and a half, I purchased 20+ pairs of heels from their online store. 30 to 40 per cent of these purchases were not delivered on the dates promised….15% were 2 weeks to one month overdue, and 15% were so overdue….2-three months, that I asked them to cancel the orders entirely.
For example, I ordered one pair from their mass-customization service which was promised in one month, but still has not been shipped 3 1/2 months later!! I do not think that I will be buying any more shoes from them anytime soon!
2) Steve madden stores never have very large or very small sizes in stock. Their stores rarely have shoes in size 11 and 12….For this reason, I don’t visit their retail stores much any more…..they never have my size in high heel shoes!
3) Their sizing is often “off”…i.e. too small! Their size 11 for example, up to 5 years ago was equivalent to EUR size 43, but nowafays matches EUR size 41, which in most other brands is a size10!
I have often heard people, especially young women from minority groups say that S Madden shoes are made too tight….when compared with say a direct competitor like Carlos Santana!
I think that Steve Madden’s core Urban (remember Steve started in the hood in New York) buyers are becoming slowly dissaffected with SM’s products and increasingly “suburban” , “poor-fashion-sense” image , delivery problems, et al, and are not bothering to buy more of their products!…..This is very different from the idea that there is no strong trend…..there are lots of strong trends….male details, oxfords with heels, for example, which Steve Madden barely addresses with some undersized shoes for suburbanites!
January 3rd, 2008 at 1:43 pm
Why was the comment from moshie above published here? I thought moderation was in effect here. That’s a useless and unnecessary comment to a very lucid and reasonable post.
PK,
Thanks for bringing that to our attention. It was missed the first time around.
-CA Editors
January 4th, 2008 at 2:01 pm
Please review the link (shown below) to customer reviews of Steve Madden Products on Amazon.com. You will see that I am not alone in my order-process problems w/ Steve Maden Ltd……
http://buybox.amazon.com/gp/help/seller/feedback.html?ie=UTF8&asin=&marketplaceSeller=&seller=A23UPJSF1XEKVR
Those mass customization (design-your-own)shoes I ordered online back in September of 2007 did finally arrive in January 2008, and they were spectacular. They fit perfectly, appear to be very well made, have beautiful, provocative, super high heels (nearly 5″!!), and are superbly avante-garde in their design, materials and cultural spirit!
If Steve Madden or their corporate buyer finds a way to produce custom shoes tailored to each individual customer’s “dreams” and is also able to deliver them in a consistently timely manner (less than 3-weeks), they will absolutely dominate their high-heel industry category in the future! Maybe they should explore alternative suppliers in “hungrier” countries than China who also have the technology to mass-produce high heel shoes….(where, I cannot say? Maybe..Brazil, Mexico, India, or your own American neighborhood cobbler/theatrical shoe maker??) Let any LBO buyer of Steve Madden be aware that they will have to spend massive amounts of money on new systems production technology in order to compete with more nimble players in their market category……
April 4th, 2008 at 6:07 am
LBOs start up again, why not instead pick one of the many deals that have already been announced but have fallen apart, with a more friendly credit market